The overnight newspaper trick that dries damp shoes, restoration experts say

In a country where drizzle is a default forecast, damp shoes are a weekday inevitability. Ask any cobbler and they’ll tell you the same: the quickest safe fix isn’t a radiator or a hairdryer—it’s the overnight newspaper trick. Restoration experts swear by it because it draws moisture out of the lining and toe box without cooking adhesives or warping leather. The method is simple, cheap, and surprisingly scientific, relying on capillary action and gentle airflow rather than heat. Below, we unpack why it works, how to do it properly, and when you should consider alternatives—plus a few pro-level upgrades for odour control and shape care that keep footwear looking box-fresh.

Why Newspaper Works Better Than Heat

Newspaper’s power lies in the cellulose fibres that behave like a sponge, creating micro-channels that wick moisture through capillary action. When you pack loosely crumpled sheets into a damp shoe, you’re creating a high surface-area, low-heat moisture sink. Air moving over the paper helps evaporate surface dampness, while the fibres actively pull moisture from the lining and insole. It’s a passive system that avoids the material shock caused by hot air. By morning, most casual shoes are dry enough to wear, and leather has kept its natural oils intact.

Heat is the enemy of longevity. Radiators and hairdryers can push temperatures beyond 60°C, softening cement adhesives, shrinking leather, and deforming foam midsoles. Suede can glaze; glues can creep; rubber outsoles can separate. Restoration workshops from Manchester to Margate report that “heat-dried” pairs are disproportionately the ones needing delamination repairs. Never put shoes directly on a radiator—ever. Gentle drying preserves the chemistry of tanning and bonding, extends the life of the upper and the midsole, and reduces the risk of mildew smells that thrive when outer layers dry while inner layers stay wet.

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Step-by-Step: The Overnight Newspaper Method

The method is deceptively simple, but the details matter. Follow this expert workflow for reliable, safe results:

• Remove laces and insoles if possible; blot puddles with a towel.
• Loosely crumple plain, non-glossy newspaper (avoid colour supplements); over-compression reduces airflow.
• Pack the toe box and midfoot gently; don’t distort the shape. Stuff the tongue area to hold it slightly open.
• Change the paper after the first 45–60 minutes to swap out the saturated layer, then restuff for overnight.
• Stand shoes on their sides (not soles) to expose more upper to air; keep them away from direct heat sources.
• For boots, rotate pairs near a cool fan to improve evaporation; use smaller twists of paper to reach the toe cap.

In the morning, remove the paper, allow 10–20 minutes of “rest” airflow, then reinstall insoles. To finish leather pairs, massage a pea-sized amount of conditioner into the vamp to replenish oils lost to moisture migration. For knit trainers, brush the interior with a soft cloth to lift any paper lint. If the shoe was fully soaked, expect to repeat the cycle once more for a bone-dry result. As a final step, insert cedar shoe trees to maintain shape and absorb residual humidity.

Pros and Cons, and When Not to Use It

Pros:

• Safe for leather, suede, and knit uppers; protects adhesives and prevents shrinkage.
• Low-cost, low-energy, and readily available—no special equipment required.
• Reduces risk of odour by drying the inner layers evenly, limiting mould growth.

Cons:

• Slower than heated devices in extreme soak situations (e.g., hiking boots saturated to the core).
• Minor risk of ink transfer on pale suedes—use plain newsprint or white packing paper.
• Requires a mid-cycle paper change for best results, which some users skip.

When not to use it: if your shoes have active salt stains from winter roads, first wipe with a 1:10 vinegar–water solution, then dry with newspaper to prevent tide marks. For full-grain leather with heavy water ingress, pair the paper method with brief fan use for airflow. Why a boot dryer isn’t always better: high localized heat can collapse heel counters and embrittle stitched welts over time. A blended approach—paper for wicking plus cool airflow—delivers speed without collateral damage. If you must accelerate, choose lukewarm, not hot, air.

Expert Upgrades: Odour Control, Shape Care, and Materials

Restorers often add simple, evidence-backed tweaks. Sprinkle a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda inside each shoe once it’s surface-dry, leave for one hour, then tap out—this neutralises acids that feed odour. Cedar chips in a mesh pouch keep shape and absorb residual humidity between wears. Avoid hairdryers and radiators; a small desk fan at low speed outperforms heat with fewer risks. For materials, tailor the routine: suede wants gentle brushing post-dry; leather wants conditioner; knit uppers benefit from a lint roll.

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There’s a sustainability dividend too. A typical boot dryer draws about 200W; eight hours at £0.28/kWh costs roughly £0.45 per session. Newspaper is effectively free and reusable for packaging or composting. Over a rainy season, that’s meaningful savings. Gentle methods extend shoe life, cutting waste and repair bills. For commuters and trail runners alike, the “paper plus airflow” protocol balances speed, safety, and cost better than any quick-blast shortcut.

From London pavements to Lake District fells, the overnight newspaper method has become the quiet hero of the shoe rack: fast enough for the weekday dash, kind enough for fine materials, and thrifty enough for the times. Pair it with small upgrades—bicarbonate for odour, cedar for shape, conditioner for leather—and damp becomes a non-issue. Avoid heat, trust capillary action, and let time do the rest. What’s your go-to routine for rescuing soggy footwear on a deadline, and which tweak—fan, cedar, or soda—made the biggest difference for you?

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